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Fontanel, Rivesaltes Ambre, 2015

This Vin Doux Naturel (literally naturally sweet wine - see below) is one of the most distinctive and exciting wines in our entire stock. From late-picked, 60 year-old vines of Grenache Blanc and Gris, the Ambré - amber - tone develops after at least five years of mildly oxidative ageing in barrel (and here it’s kept a lot longer before bottling). Pure clear amber hue. This offers intriguing fumes: dried figs and dates with a spirity lift. The sherry-like oxidation is more apparent on the palate - the dried fruit and apricot liqueur notes give way to the nuttiness of an old oloroso. Not over-sweet, but airy and fragrant. This makes a wonderful partner to hard cheese such as aged cheddar, dried fruit and nuts. Now-2030

"Full bottle 1,213 g. Late-picked, 60-year-old vines of Grenache Blanc and Gris. At least five years of mildly oxidative ageing in barrel (and here it’s kept a lot longer before bottling). Gleaming amber colour. Intense, attention-grabbing aroma of bitter-orange marmalade and dried apricots, caramelised nuts, even barley sugar (a very British hard candy). Butterscotch flavours made less sweet by that bitter orange freshness and even more intense dried fruits and candied peel. Sweet, powerful and yet perfectly harmonious, the 16% alcohol completely integrated. VGV and perfect for the end to a festive meal or for slow sipping at the end of a lazy evening. Beautiful wine and a real bargain. 17/20, Drink 2022-2030”. Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com, 1 November 2024

Vins Doux Naturels are made by stopping the fermentation of late picked, very ripe grapes, part way through its course, by the addition of alcohol (a process known as mutage); thereby preventing the yeasts from working, and leaving a fortified wine with plentiful natural, unfermented grape sugar and between 15 and 17 degrees of alcohol. It’s an ancient art which probably came over the Pyrenees from Moorish Spain with the medieval spread of distillation – and examples of VDNs are now found across the south of France, as far as Beaumes de Venise and Rasteau. These are wonderful, distinctive fortified wines - port-like but with lower alcohol levels and without the tannins.