Tautavel, France

Domaine Fontanel has featured in the SVS range for nearly fifteen years, and two owners. Located in the inhospitable hills around Maury and Tautavel in Roussillon, high in the hills above Perpignan, Fontanel make intense terroir-driven wines from one of France’s most extreme terroirs.

Elodie and Mathieu Collet took over from the former vignerons, Pierre and Marie-Claude Fontaneil, in 2017. We loved Pierre’s wines back in the day, but we love Elodie and Mathieu’s even more. There is more expression and sense of place, with a lighter hand in the cellar. The wines are still bold and powerful - as the terroir demands - but there is now an extra dimension of energy and freshness to the fruit.

The soils in this Catalan corner of France are poor. Eight different winds criss-cross the region and rarely stop blowing hard. It is France’s sunniest region with 325 days of sun, which sounds a blessing, but increasingly raises concerns about drought and wildfires. Making wine here is a labour of love.

The Amae white is a, rich, oaked blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris. Think white Burgundy crossed with Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, but with a distinct Roussillon flavour. It is superb with roast pork rubbed with fennel and garlic.

Hominus Sapanius - the name is a nod to the arcaic humans who roamed Tautavel half a million years ago -  is the first red. Syrah-led and unoaked, it is dark, spicy and mineral without any heaviness. Toulouse sausages and puy lentils make a fine match.

The top two reds are a fascinating pair. The Maury Sec Arrels is 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah from rocky, schist soils and raised in tank. Inky and concentrated with a stony edge to the bramble fruit. 

The Côtes du Roussillon Villages Cistes from clay and limestone in Tautavel is 50-50 Grenache and Syrah, given 12 months in oak. It is full-bodied and bold; dense and brooding with the oak adding a polish and gloss to the still wild fruit. Approachable now with (hearty) food, it ages superbly if you have the patience.

Elodie and Mathieu also continue the Roussillon's rich history of making exceptional fortified wines. The dry Rancio Sec is a superb alternative to fine, rare sherry while the sweet Vin Doux Naturels are among the best value wines we offer. The Rivesaltes Ambré in particular is always one of our best sellers at Christmas time.