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Sax, Gruner Veltliner, Alte Reben, Kamptal Reserve, 2023

Grüner Veltliner grown by the Sax twins from their vines on the slopes above Langenlois in the Kamptal. A terrific example: showing a cocktail of fruit, from lime and pears to orange peel and star fruit. So well-textured - such a marker of old vine (= alte reben) fruit. Builds on the palate so well. Satiny, mineral and saline. Now-2027

The Sax estate may have roots going back to 1660, but it’s now a smart and modern operation, albeit shoehorned into the typical Austrian footprint of a long, thin site just off the main square in Langenlois in the heart of the Kamptal wine region. Identical twin brothers Michael and Rudolf Sax began to assume control of their family estate and winery in 2008 at the age of 18. Hugely energetic and charming, they are making their mark within Austria.

The family own about 30 hectares of vineyards (and farm a further 30) in the Kamptal, just north-west of Vienna, a historic wine-producing region highly regarded for Grüner Veltliner, Austria’s signature white grape. The climate here is perfect for growing aromatic grapes, with hot sunny days leavened by nights cooled by breezes from the Waldviertel to the northwest.. The twins make a wide range, from which we have selected several, all from different vineyards (= Ried). All are made in stainless steel and bottled under screwcap to exhibit freshness; and we know from tasting older vintages how well they keep.