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Espiers, Cairanne, 60/40, 2021

60/40 on the front label as from 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvedre, all from old vines. From a cooler vintage than most, this shows svelte red fruit. Perfumed, really aromatic, with concentration and grip. Now-2027

Philip Cartoux has singlehandedly created his estate from parcels of vines on the western slopes of the Dentelles de Montmirail, around Vacqueyras and Sablet - he accepts that such is the rise in land values over the last fifteen years that he would never be able to do this now. All his vines are farmed organically (certified) and he minimisies the use of sulphur in winemaking.