South Africa
South African Wines
South Africa was the first New World country we explored when SVS was founded, so as early as 2003 we were running around looking for wine to ship. The reward of that labour was acknowledged as far back as 2010 when we won the International Wine Challenge Specialist Merchant for South Africa award.
The South African wine industry had to reinvent itself after the apartheid years, when the industry was working in isolation and starved of investment. For example, the country’s vineyards were previously dominated by white grapes (many of which went off to make Cape brandy). All the changes we have seen since the 1990s are now paying off. It’s no one factor, but a combination of many: huge investment in the cellars; the planting of the right red varieties in the right soils and meso-climates; the increased experience - and greater understanding of international standards and practice - of the young generation of winemakers who have come to the fore; and, perhaps most important, the increasing age of the vines following the wholesale replanting of South African vineyards. (Even now, about 40% of the vineyards are under 10 years old). This is particularly important in the case of some varieties, for example Syrah, which rarely give of their best from young vines.
We used to recommed Bordeaux blends as being perhaps the Cape’s strongest suit when it came to reds, and these remain excellent. However, we have wholly reviewed our opinion of Cape Syrah (or Shiraz, as it is often labelled there). South African Syrah is really taking on an identity of its own, offering robust cherry and blackcurrant fruit; and the addition of small quantities of other Rhône varieties - Carignan, Mourvèdre, Grenache or Cinsault - often delivers attractive seasoning. Then there’s Pinot Noir, successful only in the cooler - higher or coastal - sites such as the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley; and then there’s Pinotage...the marmite grape variously described as a living national treasure or "the only grape variety which is carcinogenic".
Pinotage is the one original South African grape, developed by Abraham Perold in Stellenbosch in 1925 by crossing Pinot Noir and Cinsault, then known as Hermitage. It has the acidity of the former parent and the warm generosity of the latter. South Africans can’t make up their minds if Pinotage is a unique selling point for the country - in the same way Zinfandel is for California, or Malbec for Argentina - or a confusing obstacle to progress. The problem about Pinotage is that, as Robert Joseph wrote in Wine magazine in August 2001, this ‘mongrel grape…unless very skilfully handled, tastes of bubble gum and burned rubber’; and he isn’t wrong about the worst examples. By 1990 plantings had declined to less than 1% of the country’s vineyards, but there has since been a considerable recovery, helped by a new understanding of how to realise its potential by improved viticulture, and also an increasing use of Pinotage as a blending ingredient. Now there is a move afoot to promote a ‘Cape Blend’ which must include at least 30% Pinotage.
In the past the Cape Winelands were centred on the triangle of Stellenbosch, Franchheoek and Paarl. As to where in the country the action is now, it’s a) the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, above Hermanus; and b) out in Swartland, the big zone north-west of Paarl which includes the districts of Voor-Paardeberg, Wellington and Malmesbury. Swartland is home to many of the most innovative winemakers, and even if not based there, others, such as Pieter Walser of Blankbottle, source grapes there. Finally there’s Robertson, a region focussed on simple, good value varietal wines.
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South Africa
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Badenhorst Family Red, Coastal Region, 2014
“The blend varies from vintage to vintage but this is always based on Syrah: 56% this vintage, plus 17% of each of Grenache and Cinsaut and 10% Tinta...”
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Badenhorst, Secateurs Red, Coastal Region, 2015
“Adi Badenhorst’s Shiraz-based blend, sourced partly from the grapes on his own estate on the Paardeberg and part from other farms in...”
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False Bay, Pinotage, Western Cape, 2014
“Victoria plum coloured. High-toned scent of raspberry cordial. Bittersweet raspberry and bilberry fruit, crisp and juicy. An attractive raspberry...”
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Chamonix, Troika, Franschhoek, 2014
“Platter’s note: "Ageworthy 14, (*****) a cab franc-led Bordeaux blend... with aromatic dark berry & charcuterie notes, malleable...”
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Chamonix, Pinot Noir Reserve, Franschhoek, 2014
“The Reserve Pinot Noir is from the higher vineyards, at 500-600 metres of altitude and facing south-south west, so cooler. Fermented with a...”
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Fryer's Cove, Pinot Noir, Western Cape, 2015
“This cool-climate Pinot comes from a remarkable vineyard (see below) with a little bought in fruit, hence Western Cape on the label. It's always...”
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BLANKbottle col. Mulscal Roos, Swartland 2013
“"Combining Shiraz with Cinsault, mostly from the Voor Paardeberg, this has 30% whole bunches and shows appropriate sappy spice complemented by...”
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Lemberg, Cape Blend, Western Cape, 2013
“A "Cape Blend" has to have at least 30% Pinotage, the country’s unique creation: here it is paired with 55% Syrah and 15% Pinot Noir (one...”
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Domaine des Dieux, Josephine Pinot Noir, Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, 2012
“From 9 year old vines. A portion is whole bunch fermented, then into French oak, 40% new. Pale hue. Gentle strawberry scent. This is very elegant for...”
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Goedverwacht, Great Expectations Crane Red, Merlot, Robertson, 2016
“This is old-fashioned and gutsy, like Cape reds of twenty years ago. Ruby tone. Scent of cooked berries and a little leafiness. Savoury, meaty...”
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Goedverwacht, Great Expectations Shiraz, Robertson, 2016
“From the Du Toit’s family-owned vineyards in Robertson, this has become very popular, the fruit lightly flavoured with oak staves.”
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Cape Rock, Capa Roca, Olifants River 2015
“Gavin always admired the quality of the Portuguese varieties at the local co-op, and has bought grapes for this wine, from approximate halves of...”
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The Fledge & Co, Syrah, Western Cape, 2015
“"A spicy, bright, 13% alc. stunner with whiplash tannins and a heavenly seaweedy, black-fruited perfume", Matthew Jukes, MoneyWeek, 29th...”
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Cederberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cederberg, 2015
“Cabernet here enjoys a long ripening period, excellent for aromatics: this isn’t picked until mid April, three months after the harvest starts in...”
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Cederberg, Shiraz, Cederberg, 2015
“Strong youthful vivid purple. Scent of ripe cherries, currants and a violet note. Deliciously forward red fruits, refined and perfumed. The merest...”
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Blankbottle Familiemoord, 2015
“"Another wonderfully imaginative label from Pieter Walser (only the "family murder" was true), this blend of Grenache with Cinsault...”
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Blankbottle, Koffer, 2015
“100% Cinsaut - the bunches carefully hand-picked and then hand-sorted, eliminating less than perfect berries. As Pieter notes, the individual Cinsaut...”
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Chamonix, Cabernet Franc, Franschhoek, 2014
“We have not shipped this wine before, but once we tasted this it was inevitable. A beguiling scent of vanilla over dark fruit prefaces a delectable...”
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Cederberg, V Generations Cabernet Sauvignon, 2015
“"This special, isolated site, located at over 1,000 metres, makes exceptional Cabernet, but especially so in 2015. Picked on April 10th, it’s...”
Displaying Wines 1 to 19 of 19