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Inospito, Rabigato, Vinho Branco, DOP Douro, 2022

A truly brilliant, tiny production white from vineyards on a mixture of clay and schist. From 100% old vine Rabigato, a native Douro grape, this is given one year of ageing in a mixture of 500 and 600 litre new and old French barrels. The result is a wine that is expressive of the Douro but with a nod to Burgundy. Rich and creamy, the baked apple flavours make it taste like Tarte Tartin before a mineral note comes through to balance it all. There is wonderful fat on the palate, but plenty of acidity to counteract it. Superbly long, an aristocrat of wine. It would make a superb partner to roast partridge and wild mushrooms. Now-2027

"Full bottle 1,329 g. Tiny production (3,320 bottles) white from vineyards on a mixture of clay and schist. From 100% old-vine Rabigato, this is given one year of ageing in a mixture of 500- and 600-litre new and old French oak barrels.
Pale gold. Powerful aroma in which the oak and the ripe citrus and yellow plums are well meshed thanks to the time in bottle post barrel-ageing. There's a sour cedary impression, too, absolutely no fruit sweetness. On the palate, dense, rich and powerful. Definitely needs food. The importer suggests roasted partridge or wild mushroom but sadly I have neither to hand. I can imagine it with the mushrooms as there is a slightly earthy savour as well as the depth and intensity of sour-fresh woody flavours – resiny cedar as well as oak spice. Big, rich and distinctive but still fresh. Firm texture as it builds in the mouth. Ready now but should continue to age well for several years. 16.5/20, Drink 2024-2028”. Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com, 30th October 2024