Domaine J. Laurens, Cremant de Limoux Brut, Les Graimenous, 2021

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Domaine J. Laurens, Cremant de Limoux Brut, Les Graimenous, 2021

We have always said this was a dead ringer for Champagne (and frankly much more fun to drink than some of the battery acid cuvées churned out by the giant Champagne co-operatives). It's a blend of 60% Chardonnay with 30% Chenin, 5% Pinot Noir and 5% Mauzac. Such a refined nose with citrus and green apple scents, breadth and complexity. This is delightfully racy and vital, with ripe orchard fruits and a refined hint of breadiness. Such a versatile wine, an ideal accompaniment to seafood, even sushi and tempura. Now-2025

Ripe peach, Bramley apple and yellow plums express themselves fully on the nose, the energetic bubbles creating a vortex of orchard fruit aromas. There’s a roundness and weight in the mouth, a creamy ripeness, some crème patissière and honeysuckle characters. Light bitter lemon rind spears through the finish and the full foamy mousse. 91 pts. 2023-2026. Natalie Earl, Decanter, Winter party wines: 25 at £20 or under, 1st July 2023

We searched for many years for classy sparkling wine from Limoux before we found Domaine J. Laurens. Founded in the 1980s, the domaine blossomed with the arrival in 2002 of locally born Jacques Calvel who saw its potential, and an opportunity to return home. The fruit from 30 hectares is hand harvested and vinified in a new dedicated facility. The wines are aged for between 1 and 2 years before release. In addition to meticulous winemaking the attention to detail extends to the stylish presentation; an often overlooked factor in choosing sparkling wines. The Blanquette has its own and unique spectrum of flavours coming from the local grape Mauzac, whilst the Cremant is more akin to a good house Champagne.