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Sax, Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal, 2023

Michael Sax, one of the young identical twins who run the eponymous winery in the Kamptal, came to London to present his wines at an Austrian tasting in London in February 2020 just before Covid struck. We went, we liked what we tasted and have never looked back. A simple but classic introduction to the grape: rounded and textured; subtle hints of pear, minerals and that elusive vegetal note one sees in Gruner. Lively and complete. Now-2025

The Sax estate may have roots going back to 1660, but it’s now a smart and modern operation, albeit shoehorned into the typical Austrian footprint of a long, thin site just off the main square in Langenlois in the heart of the Kamptal wine region. Identical twin brothers Michael and Rudolf Sax began to assume control of their family estate and winery in 2008 at the age of 18. Hugely energetic and charming, they are making their mark within Austria.

The family own about 30 hectares of vineyards (and farm a further 30) in the Kamptal, just north-west of Vienna, a historic wine-producing region highly regarded for Grüner Veltliner, Austria’s signature white grape. The climate here is perfect for growing aromatic grapes, with hot sunny days leavened by nights cooled by breezes from the Waldviertel to the northwest.. The twins make a wide range, from which we have selected several, all from different vineyards (= Ried). All are made in stainless steel and bottled under screwcap to exhibit freshness; and we know from tasting older vintages how well they keep.