We love Vermentino or Rolle as we now have to call versions from France. The EU enforced a law change a couple of years ago, so that only Italian wines can now be called Vermentino. It is an illogical decision that has enraged Paul Maury of La Combe Saint-Paul who has seen is sales drop considerably in some markets as a result. Whatever the wording on the label, this is a grape that thrives in Mediterranean conditions, particularly near the sea. The wines are vibrant, refreshing and full of summer sunshine.