Domaine Huber-Verdereau (Meursault)

Thiébault Huber, who trained in the hotel business and worked as a sommelier, inherited some vines from his grandfather and took on others belonging to Marie-France Verdereau, his wife. His first vintage at Domaine Huber-Verdereau was in 1994. He was always driven to look after his vines as naturally as possible and began working organically to achieve certification in 2001. Wanting to go further he began working with the late Pierre Masson, one of the most respected figures in biodynamic agriculture, and by 2005 his whole estate was certified biodynamic.

In 2010 Thiébault decided to buy a plot of land to build a winery in Meursault; his first vintage there was 2016. His estate now covers 32 parcels of vines over 9 hectares, from which he makes no less than 20 wines. In terms of work in the cellar, Thiébault has a gentle touch, using 350 and 500 litre barrels, minimal sulphur and no lees stirring. All his vines are farmed using organic and biodynamic practice, though certification varies a little within his range. He believes organic and biodynamic practice preserves the identity of each plot.

Tasting with Thiébault is always a highlight of my year. His knowledge and enthusiasm for his wines and vineyards is something to behold. With his commitment to organic and biodynamic viticulture there was no hiding from just how hard a vintage in the vineyard this was. Frost in April meant fifty percent of his crop was lost. Seventy five percent of his vines in Monthélie were lost which means sadly we cannot offer this wine as Thiébault did not make any. Mildew caused further complications, with this vintage. Despite all of this, and in the face of a cold north wind, picking began on the 16th of September and whilst the fruit was half the quantity normally expected, the quality was every bit as good. Thiébault described this vintage as "traditional and expressive", I cannot argue with that assessment.