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Lequin-Colin, Bourgogne Chardonnay, Back To The Roots Burgundy 2022

One of our benchmark wines: named because François bestows on this wine the traditional treatment given to much smarter appellations: it’s 100% barrel fermented, with 10% new oak; given regular lees stirring to develop texture and breadth; and bottled without fining or filtration. Hazelnuts; plus a lovely burst of lemon tinged with honey; attractive fat and length. Always punches above its weight and always a bargain at full retail price, let alone bought en primeur. Late 2024-2028

"Certified organic though this is not stated on the label. ‘Back to the Roots’ because the wine is barrel-fermented (10% new oak), lees-stirred and bottled without fining or filtration, ie given the sort of treatment normally reserved for grander appellations.
This really does smell and taste much grander than your typical Bourgogne Blanc. Subtle but definite impression of oak in mealy spice and a creamy aspect to the citrus fruit. This has real depth and breadth, the moderate acidity typical of the vintage and sufficient to balance the depth of flavour. Smooth and rich on the palate with a lovely chewy texture and very long finish. You could approach this now but I think it will be even better after another year in bottle. Serious burgundy at a good price. VGV" 16.5/20, 2024-2028, Julia Harding MW, www.jancisrobinson.com  19th February 2024