South Africa
You certainly know when you are in an African vineyard - you are told to watch out for puff adders, and you can see the paths left on the surrounding hills by troops of raiding baboons.
I covered fifteen hundred miles around the Cape winelands in April 2009, and it was a hugely stimulating trip. There is no doubt that quality is improving year on year in South Africa, whilst prices remain mercifully stable: there are some cracking values here, at every price level, whether Goedverwacht’s Merlot at £6.25 or the Ataraxia Chardonnay at £13.50.
Why is or printed list subtitled “Ancient and Modern”? First, because we have to get away from the idea that South Africa is a “New World” wine country. The first grape harvest for wine in the Cape was exactly three hundred and fifty years ago! At Meerlust one tastes the wine in a farm building dating to 1693; at the current site of Vondeling, out on the Paardeberg, the planting of vines is documented to 1720; the Van Niekerks are fifth generation farmers at Knorhoek; and at Rustenberg wine has been bottled continuously since 1892, far longer than at most French estates. South Africa, unlike Chile or New Zealand, has long enjoyed a wine culture.
Along with that history come notions of national style, a concept difficult to pin down, but unquestionably relevant to Cape reds, which so often evince an earthiness which is distinctively South African, and yet very much “Old World” in its correspondence to the French notion of terroir, encompassing not just the soils, the vines and the climate, but also the yeasts in the cellar, wine-making practice and so forth. There is no question that Meerlust’s Rubicon or Solms-Delta’s Hiervandaan are terroir wines in an “Old World” idiom.
As for the “Modern”, while we love history, we seek out the best new wineries too. All three of our growers in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley are picking grapes from vineyards on uplands grazed by sheep not much more than a decade ago. At Creation there’s a dazzling new winery and tasting room, and many others are under construction. The advantage latecomers have is to start with better plant material, resistant to the leaf-roll virus which blights many South African vineyards, better matched to their specific site than hitherto.
Furthermore Cape wineries need not be bound by any European traditions of grape varieties to be combined in a wine. Some of the most successful wines in this list are, by European standards, unusual blends: the tapestry of varieties that go into Knorhoek’s Two Cubs red, Ataraxia’s Serenity or Vondeling’s Petit Blanc are unconventional, yet make such attractive wines.
In conclusion, what is exciting about the South African wine scene today is that New World energy, creativity and innovation is being successfully grafted on to an Old World wine sensibility. Whilst there are some very fruit-driven styles, nevertheless most South African wines stand confidently between “Old World” and “New”. For example, Cape Sauvignon Blancs tend to show more overt fruit than those from the Loire, yet less so than those from New Zealand or Chile; and Stellenbosch Bordeaux blends may have higher alcohol levels than those from Bordeaux, but their flavour profile is more akin to claret than to the fruit bombs of Western Australia or Napa Valley. Many of estates shipped by us are at the forefront of carving out a distinctive and original Cape identity.
Simon Taylor
June 2009
Robertson and Eilandia
The winemakers in this area - “over the mountains” - used to be patronised by the old boys in Stellenbosch, but whilst Robertson remains one of the best sources of good value Cape wine, the success of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and even sparkling wine here has made the burghers of Stellenbosch sit up and take notice. Though it is very dry (irrigation from the Breede river being vital), and extremely hot in summer, there’s also a marked diurnal change of temperature which gives balance to the wines.
Our estates: Goedverwacht
Stellenbosch and Environs
The proliferation of wineries around Stellenbosch is extraordinary: even locals can’t keep up with the number opening each year. The name still has such a draw, and it is justified: Adie Badenhorst, former winemaker at Rustenberg, pronounced that Stellenbosch was one of the best places in the world for grape production.
Our estates: False Bay, Knorhoek, Le Riche Wines, Meerlust, Rustenberg
Franschhoek
Though technically a sub-district of Paarl, Franschhoek has a character all of its own. Just as the pretty town was first settled in the late 1680s by Huguenots, who brought French wine expertise with them, so the valley is highly cosmopolitan now, attracting overseas investment into real estate and wineries. The better vineyards lie on the slopes of the surrounding mountains rather than on the alluvial valley floor.
Our estates: Cape Chamonix, Solms-Delta
Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Walker Bay
The Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, which literally translates as Heaven on Earth, rises prettily from just west of Hermanus. When we first visited in 2003 the wineries were all in the lower part of the valley, but more recently pioneers have begun planting in the Upper Valley - higher, drier, with warmer days but cooler nights - and now we are working with no less than three such estates. Enjoying naturally low pH soils, and moderate temperatures, this really is a sweet spot in the Cape, excellent for both whites and reds, and with a sense of community and mutual support and respect among the valley’s winemakers.
Our estates: Ataraxia Mountain Vineyards, Spookfontein
Paarl and Swartland
North of Paarl the landscape changes. The towns, densely planted vineyards and concentration of small wine farms gives way to open, sweeping plains, planted more with wheat than vines, divided by jagged mountain ranges. It’s hotter out here, though the vines on the ridges such as the Paardeberg and the Riebeekberg, benefit from south-westerly breezes from the Atlantic bringing cloud and rain.
Our estates: Kloovenberg and Vondeling
The north-west and the far south: cooler climes of the Cape
It would be logical to assume that as one heads 200 kilometres north of Cape Town that the vineyards would be hotter - but not in the case of Fryer's Cove at Bamboes Bay and Cederberg, our two estates in the north-west of the Cape winelands: the former is on the frigid Atlantic, the latter cooled by over 1,000 metres of altitude.
Our estates: Fryer's Cove and Cederberg
Our South African Wines…

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From dry-farmed, bush vines, mainly in the Paardeberg and Riebeek Valley, slowly fermented,...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionWestern Cape
ColourWhite
ABV13%
Bottle75cl
CodeFAB119
GrapeChenin Blanc

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Always our benchmark wine at this estate - this is the 17th continuous vintage we have shipped....
OriginSouth Africa
RegionCederberg
ColourWhite
ABV13%
Bottle75cl
CodeCED119
GrapeChenin Blanc

Fryer's Cove, Pinot Noir, Bamboes Bay, 2017
Medium Bodied
Attractive, soft ruby tone; pretty cherry and lightly floral aromas. Supple, pleasingly fleshy...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionWestern Cape
ColourRed
ABV12.5%
Bottle75cl
CodeFRY617
GrapePinot Noir

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10% goes into old oak barrels, giving volume rather than oak flavour, and the wine gains weight...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionSwartland
ColourWhite
ABV13.5%
Bottle75cl
CodeBAD119
GrapeChenin Blanc

The target is consistent, a densely textured, complex wine, based on fruit from the family...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionCoastal
ColourWhite
ABV14%
Bottle75cl
CodeBAD317
GrapeChenin Blanc Blend

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Badenhorst Family Red, Swartland, 2017
Full Bodied
Lovely old-fashioned methods: early picked grapes for freshness, whole bunches foot-trodden for...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionCoastal
ColourRed
ABV13.5%
Bottle75cl
CodeBAD817
GrapeSyrah/Shiraz Blend

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Badenhorst, Secateurs Red, Swartland, 2019
Light-Medium Bodied
Over the years this has changed from being a chunky blend based on Syrah to a more graceful one...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionSwartland
ColourRed
ABV13%
Bottle75cl
CodeBAD619
GrapeCinsault blend

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False Bay, Pinotage, Western Cape, 2018
Medium Bodied
Plum coloured. High-toned scent of berries. Bittersweet raspberry and bilberry fruit, bold and...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionWestern Cape
ColourRed
ABV14.5%
Bottle75cl
CodeFAB818
GrapePinotage

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A Cape Pouilly-Fumé - an intense mouthful of gooseberry and passion-fruit, checked by crisp...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionBamboes Bay
ColourWhite
ABV14%
Bottle75cl
CodeFRY117
GrapeSauvignon Blanc

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By European standards this is a strange blend: the Spanish Palomino grape, known for sherry;...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionWestern Cape
ColourWhite
ABV12.5%
Bottle75cl
CodeBAD219
GrapePalomino & Semillon

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From cool vineyards at the top of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. As the vines here age, this wine...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionHemel-en-Aarde
ColourRed
ABV13.5%
Bottle75cl
CodeDDD615
GrapePinot Noir

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Goedverwacht, Great Expectations Shiraz, Robertson, 2018
Medium Bodied
Pretty raspberry and vanilla scent. Bright berried fruit with a hint of earthiness. Excellent...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionRobertson
ColourRed
ABV14%
Bottle75cl
CodeGDV618
GrapeSyrah/Shiraz

Made by Syrah specialist Niels Verburg of nearby Luddite, about 95% Syrah in this vintage,...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionHemel-en-Aarde Ridge
ColourRed
ABV15%
Bottle75cl
CodeDDD814
GrapeSyrah Mouvedre

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One of the newer MCC producers. 58% Pinot Noir and 42% Chardonnay. Have a 28-ha farm of which...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionWalker Bay
ColourRosé
ABV11.5%
Bottle75cl
CodeDDD411
GrapeChardonnay

From 81.5% Chenin Blanc and 18.5% Viognier dried on straw in the Italian passito manner to...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionCoastal Region
ColourWhite
ABV9.5%
Bottle37.5cl
CodeRUS919
GrapeChenin Blanc & Viognier

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There's usually only around 500 dozen released of David Nieuwoudt's top red, based on...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionCederberg
ColourRed
ABV14.5%
Bottle75cl
CodeCED917
GrapeCabernet Sauvignon

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Doring Bay is the second line of Fryer's Cove. An intense, green-fruited and zippy...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionWestern Cape
ColourWhite
ABV13.5%
Bottle75cl
CodeFRY319
GrapeSauvignon Blanc

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"This South African wine may taste slightly more like a sparkling Chardonnay than...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionElgin
ColourWhite
ABV12%
Bottle75cl
CodeDDD413
GrapeChardonnay & Pinot Noir

Cederberg, Shiraz, 2017
Medium Bodied
David's Shiraz is unfailingly spectacular: given plenty of extraction and 60% new oak,...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionCederberg
ColourRed
ABV14.5%
Bottle75cl
CodeCED817
GrapeShiraz

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Six hats is the Piekenierskloof estate's second, Fairtrade label, including fruit not just...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionWestern Cape
ColourWhite
ABV12.5%
Bottle75cl
CodeSIX119
GrapeChenin Blanc

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Piekenierskloof, Cinsault, 2019
Medium Bodied
Please note this is NOT the wine recommended by Jancis Robinson in the FT on the 12th of...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionPiekenierskloof
ColourRed
ABV14.5%
Bottle75cl
CodePIK619
GrapeCinsault

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Piekenierskloof, Grenache Noir, 2019
Full-bodied
Piekenierskloof has more Grenache planted than any other estate in the Cape - that's why...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionPiekenierskloof
ColourRed
ABV13.5%
Bottle75cl
CodePIK819
GrapeGrenache

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From a block planted in 1987, and about 1/3 matured in new barrels, 2/3 second fill. Opulent,...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionCeres
ColourWhite
ABV14.5%
Bottle75cl
CodeKOE117
GrapeChardonnay

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Koelfontein, Shiraz, Ceres, 2018
Full-bodied
This terrific Shiraz, given 20 months in new French barrels, is spectacular and has garnered a...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionCeres
ColourRed
ABV14.5%
Bottle75cl
CodeKOE618
GrapeShiraz

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MAGNUM Cederberg, Shiraz, Cederberg, 2016
Full-Bodied
David Nieuwoudt's's 2016 Shiraz won a slew of awards: SAwi (South African Wine index)...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionCederberg
ColourRed
ABV14.5%
Magnum150cl
CodeCED416
GrapeShiraz

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Vriesenhof, Pinotage, Stellenbosch, 2017
Medium Bodied
Pinotage, a grape created in the Cape in 1925 as a cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsault, is a...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionStellenbosch
ColourRed
ABV14%
Bottle75cl
CodeVRI317
GrapePinotage

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Vriesenhof, Kallista, Stellenbosch, 2016
Full Bodied
A beautiful Bordeaux blend given ageing in plenty of new barrels, 40% Cabernet Franc, 35%...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionCeres
ColourRed
ABV13.5%
Bottle75cl
CodeVRI416
GrapeCabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot

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From a vineyard with a high clay content which suits Merlot. It’s always made in a slightly...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionRobertson
ColourRed
ABV13%
Bottle75cl
CodeGDV419
GrapeMerlot

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Goedverwacht translates from Afrikaans as "good hope".This Chardonnay is made by father Jan Du...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionRobertson
ColourWhite
ABV13.5%
Bottle75cl
CodeGDV318
GrapeChardonnay

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Look at this – a Swartland Chenin blend for less than 10 pounds a bottle! Stonedance is a...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionSwartland
ColourWhite
ABV12.5%
Bottle75cl
CodeSTO120
GrapeChenin Blanc, Viognier, Chardonnay

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Although there is no mention on the label, this is about two thirds from the young Sauvignon...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionWestern Cape
ColourWhite
ABV13.5%
Bottle75
CodeCED620
GrapeSauvignon Blanc

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Piekenierskloof, formerly a co-operative but now privately owned, owns outstanding vineyards...
OriginSouth Africa
RegionPiekenierskloof
ColourWhite
ABV13.5%
Bottle75
CodePIK119
GrapeGrenache Blanc