Mickael Moze-Berthon: Rocher-Gardat, Vieux Chantecaille and Gouprie, Bordeaux, France

Mickael Moze-Berthon makes wonderful wines, densely fruited and well-oaked, from no less than four estates, assembled over seven generations of family growers. His principal wine is his Rocher-Gardat Montagne Saint-Emilion, from 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc grown on his seven hectares of vines on thinly-soiled, argilo-calcaire slopes. We sold many cases of his splendid 2010 and 2012 vintages: both 2015 and 2016 are stunning too.

He also has just over a hectare of St Emilion, 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet France, bottled as Chateau Vieux Chantecaille. His vineyards are within the Saint-Emilion Grand Cru boundary, just across the road from the famed Pomerol property of Le Bon Pasteur, but as his cellar is outside the limits of the St Emilion Grand Cru appellation he can only sell it as Saint-Emilion - this is one, frankly absurd, recent adjustment of local bureaucracy. Effectively he is delivering wine from a Grand Cru terroir at a modest price.

Thirdly he has 3 hectares of Pomerol at Chateau Gouprie, about 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc, grown on clay and gravels containing iron oxide. This shows perfectly the power of the wines from this appellation.