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Zanut, Jama, Goriska Brda, 2012, Slovenia

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Call it Simon’s folly if you like, but I could not resist shipping a little Jama (pronounced "Yama"), a single vineyard wine from Friulano = Sauvignonasse, only produced in the best vintages – and just 930 bottles in 2012. Very late picked – on the 23rd-24th October - the grapes were then left in tank to ferment on their skins for twenty days. That gives a deep yellow colour to the wine, and satisfying density and complexity. Floral (blossom), fruity (exotic fruits, dried fruit and Seville oranges) and spice flavours are all present; and the wine is hugely aromatic, powerful and structured, with a nip of tannin from the skins. Whilst the overall effect is perhaps comparable to an amphora-aged, natural wine there are no hints of the wine faults which so often mar natural wines. It’s also like a great Savennières, dry, mineral, savoury and long-lived. Whilst this can be drunk with a wide range of dishes, from the finest veal to lobster, it can also be enjoyed on its own, or just with some hard cheese. Now-2021

Zanut, Jama, Goriska Brda, 2012,

Product Code: ZAN515

Stone, Vine & Sun rating

Full bodied

Rated 2 out of 5
Dry > Sweet
  • Origin: Slovenia
  • Region: Goriska Brda
  • Vintage: 2012
  • Colour: White
  • Bottle Size: 75cl
  • ABV: 15%
View other wines from this grower

At the 20th Slovenian Wine Festival in November 2017 Ljubljana one man’s wines stood out for me: those of Borut Kocijančič at Zanut. The seven hectares of the family-owned Zanut vineyards, mostly terraced and all grassed, lie across the rolling hills of Brda near the village of Neblo in the far west of Slovenia; only a few kilometres from the Italian border, and just north of the Italian city of Gorizia (Goriska). Soils, rich in minerals, are composed of clay, slate and sandstone.  As one would expect, given the location, the grape varieties grown are very similar to those grown across the border in Friuli.

As the prices imply, these are no ordinary wines. The products of one of the top growers in Goriska Brda, the country’s highest rated wine district, they fully deserve to be enjoyed by British wine drinkers. As tastings of older vintages confirmed, they keep well too.

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