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Aba de Trasumia, Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain, 2020

Albariño is the best known grape and wine of Galicia in Spain’s Atlantic north-west, and specifically of the Rías Baixas, the heavily indented coastline around Pontevedra. This comes from Viña Moraima, a tiny co-operative (just 13 growers producing around 4,000 cases a year) established in 2006 near Pontevedra. Most of the growers are small farmers with vineyards on the slopes of the Salnés Valley: and some of the vines, largely high trained on trellises in the traditional manner, are very old indeed. It’s lovely in the latest vintage, delivering a deliciously open palate of apricot and ripe citrus tinged with floral notes and a saline hint. Albariño makes a superb match to any seafood, but an enticing aperitif too. Now-2021