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France: Loire Valley

In early February I undertook our annual visit to the wine fair in Angers, escaping the snow which engulfed much of the UK during that week. This is the yearly opportunity for the vast majority of vignerons in the Loire valley to show off their latest offerings to the rest of the world. The early season’s weather in 2008 was not kind, with variously frost, hail and torrential rain all conspiring to reduce the size of the crop and make life uncomfortable for the growers. Sunny and dry weather from the second week in September allowed the grapes to ripen fully. However, to get the best results careful selective picking was required adding further to production costs. The extra work required in the vineyards coupled with reduced production (down 30% in some cases) has put upward pressure on prices, though most growers have worked with us to minimize price increases. The Sauvignons of the upper Loire and Touraine are attractively aromatic, concentrated yet more focused than 2007. Red wines, particularly from Cabernet Franc, display impressive concentration allied to ripe structure. Late October rain did dilute a potentially outstanding sweet wine vintage, but this list contains wines from the superb 2007 and earlier vintages.

We have found several new wines from a number of our best sources to complement the many perennial favourites.

Gordon Coates
April 2009


Pouilly-Fumé

The longest river in France; the Loire flows north for over half its length, before turning west at Orléans and heading towards the Atlantic coast. Just before this deviation the river runs between Pouilly and Sancerre, the two most famous names in the whole valley. Both towns are capable of producing thrilling wines from Sauvignon Blanc but it would be a brave, or possibly foolish, taster who would claim to consistently tell one from the other. It is true that Pouilly-Fumé has a higher proportion of clay-flint soils which can impart a characteristic smokiness to the wines.

Sancerre

Just across the river from Pouilly, Sancerre is so famous that high prices are no guarantee of quality. At a time when so many are tempted to take the high volume route the value of our carefully built relationships with those who favour quality over quantity cannot be overestimated. As the demand for white Sancerre is so high Pinot Noir makes up only a small percentage of the vineyard area but the delicate rosé that it produces is entrancing a growing number of fans. The difficult vintages since 2005 have not favoured the production of red Sancerre. 

Quincy and Menetou-Salon

Quincy and Menetou-Salon both have their own history and character. In 1936, rather surprisingly, Quincy, just north-west of Bourges, became only the second Appellation Controlée in France, after the example of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. From plantings on lighter, sandier soils, and with a slightly warmer climate than at Sancerre, wines from Quincy tend to be creamier and softer. The appellation of Menetou-Salon, spread out along a range of hills to the north-east of Bourges, is contiguous with Sancerre. Among Charolais pastures and cereals, the vineyards lie largely on south-facing slopes, all on calcareous, Kimeridgian clay.

Touraine Amboise

Touraine Amboise is a very small appellation - only 220 hectares - either side of the Loire east of Tours. Two thirds is planted to red varieties, which thrive on the clay and limestone soils.

Saint Nicolas de Bourgeuil and Chinon

Just before the town of Saumur as the Loire flows towards the west is the source of many of the best red wines in the valley. Saint Nicolas lies on the north bank whilst Chinon is to the south of the river, both producing wines from Cabernet Franc in styles from light and early drinking to more full-bodied, structured and age worthy.

Anjou-Saumur

As the river flows west from Touraine, Chenin takes over from Sauvignon Blanc for whites, supplemented by the Cabernet varieties for reds and rosés, This area south of the town of Angers produces the vast quantities needed to fill supermarket shelves, alongside rare and sought after treats such as Savennières and Quarts de Chaume.

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Our Favourite Selection

  • Domaine de l'Aumonier, Touraine Sauvignon, 2008

    Product Code: AUM108

    Domaine de l'Aumonier, Touraine Sauvignon, 2008

    “Our best selling white wine for the last five years. Pale yellow. Fresh, lightly floral scent. Lots of flavour - lime and ripe grapefruit - and good...”

    Stone, Vine & Sun rating

    Dry, Crisp

    Rated 1 out of 5
    Dry > Sweet
    • Origin: France
    • Region: Loire Valley
    • Colour: White
    • Bottle Size: 75cl
    • ABV: 13%
    More Info
  • Delta, Pinot Noir, Marlborough, 2008

    Product Code: DEL608

    Delta, Pinot Noir, Marlborough, 2008

    “Mid raspberry, pale and slightly smudgy look. Enticing aromas of fresh oak overlaying creamy blueberry and red cherry fruit. Bright, juicy attack....”

    Stone, Vine & Sun rating

    Light, Medium Bodied

    Rated 2 out of 5
    Light > Full
    • Origin: New Zealand
    • Region: Marlborough
    • Colour: Red
    • Bottle Size: 75cl
    • ABV: 13%
    More Info
  • Domaine Le Couroulu, Vacqueyras, Vieilles Vignes, 2005

    Product Code: COW305

    Domaine Le Couroulu, Vacqueyras, Vieilles Vignes, 2005

    “80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, made from two parcels planted on the plateau amidst the garrigue by M. Ricard’s grandparents. Guy says this is the best...”

    Stone, Vine & Sun rating

    Full Bodied

    Rated 4 out of 5
    Light > Full
    • Origin: France
    • Region: Rhône
    • Colour: Red
    • Bottle Size: 75cl
    • ABV: 14.5%
    More Info
  • Jacquesson, Champagne, Cuvée 732, NV

    Product Code: JAC132

    Jacquesson, Champagne, Cuvée 732, NV

    “Quantities at Jacquesson are tiny, but quality is widely acknowledged as being extremely high. Cuvée 732 is based on the 2004 vintage and sourced...”

    Stone, Vine & Sun rating

    Dry

    Rated 1 out of 5
    Dry > Sweet
    • Origin: France
    • Region: Champagne
    • Colour: White
    • Bottle Size: 75cl
    • ABV: 12%
    More Info
  • Saint Daumary, Pic Saint Loup, Voilà Le Printemps, 2007

    Product Code: DAU107

    Saint Daumary, Pic Saint Loup, Voilà Le Printemps, 2007

    “60% Syrah, 15% Grenache, 15% Carignan and 10% Mourvèdre. Scent of black cherries, and that cherry note continues on to the palate, with hints of...”

    Stone, Vine & Sun rating

    Full Bodied

    Rated 4 out of 5
    Light > Full
    • Origin: France
    • Region: Languedoc
    • Colour: Red
    • Bottle Size: 75cl
    • ABV: 14%
    More Info
  • CarinaE, Malbec, Reserva, Mendoza, 2007

    Product Code: CAE207

    CarinaE, Malbec, Reserva, Mendoza, 2007

    “Oaked, mainly in old barrels. Deep purple. Seductive creamy oak nose. Really ripe and fleshy wine, brambly fruit given substance and ageing potential...”

    Stone, Vine & Sun rating

    Medium

    Rated 3 out of 5
    Light > Full
    • Origin: Argentina
    • Region: Mendoza
    • Colour: Red
    • Bottle Size: 75cl
    • ABV: 14.5%
    More Info
  • Domaine de la Guicharde, Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Autour de la Chapelle, 2008

    Product Code: GUH608

    Domaine de la Guicharde, Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Autour de la Chapelle, 2008

    “The apricotty perfume of the Viognier is to the fore, with a waxy pear note of the Marsanne. This is so fresh and zippy, delivering the pretty...”

    Stone, Vine & Sun rating

    Dry, Full Bodied

    Rated 1 out of 5
    Dry > Sweet
    • Origin: France
    • Region: Rhône
    • Colour: White
    • Bottle Size: 75cl
    • ABV: 12.5%
    More Info
  • Great New World Pinot

    Product Code: PN310

    Great New World Pinot

    “A mixed case including two bottles of each of the six wines listed, with a discount of 10%”

    More Info
  • Mas des Brousses, Chasseur des Brousses, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2008

    Product Code: MAB108

    Mas des Brousses, Chasseur des Brousses, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2008

    “60% Merlot with Grenache and Cinsaut, a wine with Bordelais style from the garrigue. Leafy and herby scents. Black plum and berry core, spiced with...”

    Stone, Vine & Sun rating

    Medium Bodied

    Rated 3 out of 5
    Light > Full
    • Origin: France
    • Region: Languedoc
    • Colour: Red
    • Bottle Size: 75cl
    • ABV: 13.5%
    More Info
  • Spicebox

    Product Code: Spicedoz

    Spicebox

    “A mixed case to match spicy food including two bottles of each of the six wines listed, with a discount of 7.5%”

    More Info
  • Honoro Vera, Jumilla, 2008

    Product Code: HON108

    Honoro Vera, Jumilla, 2008

    “Made at Bodegas Juan Gil from 100% Monastrell, organically grown in the mountains north of the city of Murcia. Deep, youthful purple. Very bright and...”

    Stone, Vine & Sun rating

    Medium Bodied

    Rated 3 out of 5
    Light > Full
    • Origin: Spain
    • Region: Jumilla
    • Colour: Red
    • Bottle Size: 75cl
    • ABV: 14%
    More Info
  • Lenten Restraint

    Product Code: LEN10

    Lenten Restraint

    “A case of three bottles of each of these four wines, with a discount of just over 10%; a mixed dozen intended simply to put decent, fresh, really well-made wines into your home for daily drinking,...”

    More Info

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