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Saint Daumary

When I (Simon Taylor) visited the Languedoc and Roussillon in February 09, the single best tasting at any grower was with Julien Chapel at Saint Daumary. Julien is a short, neat man, with a little cellar in Valflaunès. His vineyards are nearby on the flanks of the plateau of Hortus, just to the north of the 685 metre peak of Pic St Loup. These are at the heart of this mountainous appellation north of Montpellier, cooled by wind and some altitude, and long known as a top Syrah terroir. Julien’s little plots are mostly scraped out of the garrigue, the surrounding scrub, on mainly limestone rich soils which suit Syrah, although there is also Grenache on the sandier sites, and he has planted Mourvèdre in his hottest corners.

We have really found a star in this modest and amiable young man, who has taken over part of his father’s land and converted to organic cultivation: he is now in the process of becoming certified. He believes organics delivers better “transmission of terroir”, and it’s hard to argue on this evidence. These superb wines show such pure fruit and lovely floral touches too, and though not cheap, are not in the least expensive given their purity, refinement and ageing potential. A word of advice - decant the reds, as they can be mildly reduced, and will show better.

First up is his elegant and refined white, La Boca Loca, 80% Roussanne with Grenache Blanc, about a third of which is lightly oaked. His red Pic St. Loups are all based on Syrah (see the proportions for each wine) with Grenache, Mourvèdre and Carignan. Voilà Le Printemps (“here comes the spring”) is unoaked, deliciously perfumed, and to be enjoyed young for its smooth black fruit. The Syrah in the Troisième Mi-Temps (which vaguely translates as “third half”) is aged in barrel, whilst the Grenache and Carignan is in tank. Asphodèle, named after the plant which dots the slopes, gets 18 months in barrel: it’s oaky, concentrated and has more than a touch of Côte Rôtie about it.

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