The back label calls this “Rouge fruité”; and it’s exactly as described, offering a classic Grenache nose of crushed cherries, and then a deliciously forward, supple juicy gulp of raspberries, with the merest smudge of tannin and a lovely perfumed finish. Now-2013

Product Code: PES110

Our search for someone making authentic but fairly priced Châteauneuf drew us to Domaine Roger Perrin, situated between Orange and Châteauneuf (and, en passant, no relation to the more famous Perrins of Beaucastel). We much enjoyed tasting the domaine’s excellent 2008s, but sadly, as we were planning to visit last September, we heard that Luc Perrin, who had run the estate since 1986, had died of cancer. Robert Parker, who counted him a friend, lamented the loss of one of the appellations’s “young, dynamic leaders”. Now the estate is being managed by his capable sister, Véronique Perrin-Rolin, herself an oenologist in Tain.

The average age of the vines is very high indeed, with some of the numerous plots in their 15.6 hectares of Châteauneuf planted a century ago, and the average being about 60 years old. Their principal Châteauneuf is a traditional blend of about 70% Grenache, plus, in descending order, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsaut, Clairette, Counoise and Vaccarese. Grapes are partially destemmed, and aged in a mix of stainless steel, old foudres, and a few new barrels.